happythings

Basic chenille baby bibs - tutorial

OK - As requested, here is a tutorial about how I make my chenille baby bibs.  A couple of notes first...

--I received bibs like this from my friend Tonya when Bea was a baby.  She had a little business making bibs and blankies.  I loved them so much that when I started sewing a year or so later I soon tried my hand at them, using her bib shape as a starting point.  I loved using the fabric bibs for Bea's meals.  To me, they were just more comfy then plastic bibs and I just threw them in the wash with the placemats/napkins/towels. 
--I have made them in a smaller size for tiny droolers and in larger sizes for messy toddlers.  This pattern is for a medium size. 
--As with my other tutorials, I am assuming that if you are seeking sewing advice from ME, you are a beginner - so I'll probably explain stuff that some of you don't need to know.  Just skip over it.
--You can click on the photos to see them a little bigger. 

First, you'll need a pattern.   Download bib_pattern_pdf.pdf
Cut it out and tape the two pieces together, matching up the registration lines.   

(A) I like to transfer my bib patterns to freezer paper so I can use the iron to temporarily adhere the pattern to the fabric.  This just makes it easier to cut out the fabric, especially the chenille.  I find that you can use the same freezer paper piece over about 6 times before it looses it's sticky. 
(B) Cut out two copies of the pattern -- one chenille for the front of the bib and one cotton for the back of the bib.  (Obviously, you don't have to choose these fabrics  -- it is just what I do.  The chenille is so soft and does a really good job at absorbing drools and dribbles and also catching crumbs.  It's bumpiness also serves to hide little imperfections in the seam edges - something I've come to really appreciate.  It is available at most fabric stores these days or online.)

(C) Place the two pieces right sides together and pin them all around.  Make sure you leave an opening at the bottom of the bib big enough to turn it right side out.  I use two pins to mark where I want to start and stop sewing if my brain isn't trustworthy that day.
(D) Now, sew - backstitching at the beginning and ending of your seam.  I use a GENEROUS 1/4 inch seam -- probably more like 3/8 inch really.  I find it works best to always sew with the chenille on the bottom.
(E) Flip your bib right side out now, using your hand or a pencil if needed to push the fabric at the points all flat.  Iron the seams flat so everything is laying how you want it.  Use the iron to help you finish your seams in the open spot at the bottom and use pins to hold it closed.  Then top stitch close to the edge all around the bib, starting at the beginning of the opening.  Oh - now might be a good time to say that I tend to construct my bibs with thread that matches the chenille -- the stitches will then really just disappear into the pile.
(F)  Now I cut a little square of sew on velcro and sew it on to the top of the bib as shown above.  I tend to put the fuzzy side of the velcro on the chenille side and the pokey size of the velcro on the cotton side.  Of course, if you prefer (and have a snap attacher) you could use a snap here. 

OK - Done!  Pretty darn easy, eh?  I have made most of my bibs like this - simple and plain.  I have noticed that some people don't use "fancy" hand-made bibs cause they don't want to get them dirty.  So if I want folks to use them I don't spend a lot of time embellishing.  You are free to get as fancy as you want of course!  Here are a couple of ideas that I've tried.

Variation #1:
Just cut a nice, smooth shaped applique from the backing fabric and sew it (raw-edge applique) to the chenille with a very short/narrow zig zag stitch (sometimes called a satin stitch for some reason.)  I don't bother with fusible cause the bumpy chenille hides most of my sins.  If you capture the raw edges under the line of stitching it really holds up wash after wash very well.  Tonya made Bea a Hello Kitty bib like this and it was her favorite and it still looks great.  Oh, and I do this on the chenille side before sewing the sides together though I guess it wouldn't hurt to do it after.

Variation #2:
Use up your scraps to make the back a patchwork and get all crazy with ricrac on the front (attached to the chenille before the front and back of the bib was sewn together.)

--Just sew scraps together to make a mini quilt big enough to use for your backing fabric and cut your back out normally.  I try to lay out the pattern so there aren't too many seams at the top of the bib "handles" (what would you call those?) or on the curve under the chin -- No big deal but bulkiness in those spots just makes things more difficult.  (If you want a more regular patchwork look and don't know how to do patchwork, check out my other tutorial on a patchwork blanket.) 
--Since I intend for these bibs to be used and washed repeatedly I think it is nice to topstitch the seams of this patchwork (as is shown above, right) now before sewing it to the chenille.  I think this just helps the seams lie flatter.  Just sew a line of stitching in the middle of each seam after you press them to one side.

OK - I hope this helps you.  Let me know if you have any questions.  Now, go make your own fun bibs!  Leave me a comment here if you make bibs from this tut.  I'd love to see your creativity.

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You can check out my Project Photo Album for pictures of different bibs I've made.  I've also given matching chenille burp cloths as a novelty/nicety.

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Edited to say:
The pdf is meant to be printed on 8.5x11 paper.  The pattern is approximately 10.5x14 inches. The pattern includes a 3/8" seam allowance so the big will finish slightly less than an inch smaller. 

Scrap X Quilt -- Kisses kisses smooch and smack

Another month, another strip scrap quilt!  I really enjoyed the process on this one too - the X blocks are quite fun to make and they have a strong visual impact.  I'm itching to try another version with some of my favorite fabrics.  Bea is sad this is going to the Linus Connection tomorrow so I guess I'll have an excuse to make another "copy."

As I was making this I realized why I was so drawn to the pattern.  Pretty much the same, no?  Except the old quilt was hand pieced with crazy construction on the center of those x's and inset triangles. 

I pretty much used the method described in Strips & Strings by Evelyn Sloppy (her "Bunny Love" quilt) but obviously didn't use color coordinated strips and didn't mix in appliqued bunnies.  I made a few changes to the method, desribed below.  I also found this link for more of the same quilts - though this site uses a different construction method and recommends foundation piecing. 

Here's how I made it:

1.  Sew together a bunch of strips to make a unit that is at least 9.5 inches wide and 18 inches long. (I increased the dimensions a bit from her recommendations.) Press. 

2.  Cut that unit into four identical strips (yes, only 2 are pictured here) that are 4 inches wide.  Also, for each block you will need four 4.5 inch squares of background fabric cut in half diagonally to make 8 triangles.  (I think it would help if these were just a smidge bigger - see cutting, below)

3.  Sew the triangles to either side of the center strip, lining them both up in the middle.  Press them open and use a square see-through ruler to trim the entire piece to a 6.5 inch square as shown.  (The block with triangles added was supposed to be oversize but I found that the background squares were just the right size or a tiny bit smaller most of the time.  I'm not very good at that SCANT 1/4" seam thing I guess so that made the difference.  Anyway, you'll figure it out -- either sew that scant seam or cut the triangles a hair bigger -- or stretch that fabric when you piece :-)) 

4.  When you sew four of those together you'll have a block.  Obviously there is a bit of seam matching going on here if you want things to match up nice - so you do need to pin at the intersections.

I did different X variations on the quilt as you can see -- turning all the center strips the same direction, alternating 2 one direction, 2 the other, and even mixing strips from different scrap units.  I think I like the 2nd option the best myself but with this sorta quilt, it is all about the playing.

Foundation pieced strip quilt / tutorial

Next!
This quilt is my latest answer to how to use up the scrap strips that pile up when I cut squares for the kits from fabric donated to the Linus Connection.  It reminds me of fruit stripe gum for some reason.  I'll donate this at the next meeting along with more kits (And you know what that means.  More scraps.  Argh!!)

I made one before but it was problematic because I didn't know how to deal with the thick seams.  Now I've got it -- leave an overhang of fabric 1/4 inch over your foundation!!  The diagonal strips use up a lot of scraps.  Not the best if you are living through the Depression and need every inch of fabric I bet -- but here in the land of fabric-by-the-pound -- cheap!, it's cool. 

Anyway, do you want to learn how?

First - do it straight.  Unless you TOTALLY get it, you might want to try it this way once.

Straight foundation pieced strip block

1.  Cut a square out of muslin or any light colored scrap of cotton fabric.  Mine was 6.5 inches.  Gather a bunch of scrap strips, any width, and longer than your square.  It helps if they are ironed, but they don't need to be cut straight or all the same or anything.
2. Lay the first strip down RIGHT SIDE UP on your square positioned so that it overhangs the left edge and the top and bottom by more than 1/4 inch. 
3. Lay the next strip down on top of the first with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.  Go ahead and make the edges of these two pieces even just for yucks.  Make sure it overhangs the top and bottom by at least 1/4 inch. Now, it helps if you use a pin to hold all three layers together to move it to the sewing machine.
4. Sew a 1/4 seam on the right side of these strips, then press the top piece open flat.
5.  Now it is just about repeating.  Lay another strip RIGHT SIDE DOWN on top of the 2nd strip.  You'll note that you don't really have to align the right edges with this technique.  You can sew it at any angle you want.  Just make sure the pieces always hang over the edge by more than 1/4 inch.
6.  If you do sew a piece on at a wonky angle you will most likely want to then trim away the excess in the seam allowance so there aren't 3 layers of fabric.  Trust me, this quilt will already be heavy enough.
7. Keep on a going until you've filled up your square, making sure the last piece overhangs by at least 1/4 inch.  It is up to you whether you actually use an iron to press each seam open as you go or whether you "finger press."  I've been known to do both.
8. Definitely press it all flat at this point.  Now, flip the square over so you see the original square foundation and use this edge to guide you to cut your new square 1/4 inch bigger on all sides.  *It is more important that your final square is square so if you foundation has shifted at all during the process, you might have to fudge your 1/4" on some sides.  You'll see.
9. Now you are done.  :-) 
I do think it is nice to learn the technique with the straight on method but I don't think it is necessarily required to do straight strip sewing with a foundation.  If you plan to do a lot of wonky seams (as described above) then it would be good I guess, but otherwise I think you could just sew a bunch of strips together and it would be good.  If you want diagonal on the other hand, I think the foundation is very helpful, so read on.

Diagonal foundation pieced strip block   

This is the same method, just diagonal.
1.  Start with the muslin square. 
2. You start out at one corner with a right side up strip (or even a square as shown) that overhangs all sides by 1/4 inch or more. 
3. The next strip is tricky! Watch out - it needs to overhang the square not just where it starts but also where it will end once flipped over.  You'll probably make a few mistakes like I did before you finally get this into your skull.  Basically, make it longer than you'd think.  Sew it on.
4. I found that with the diagonal block it really did make things nicer to press in between each seam.  Breathe.  It helps if you do an assembly line - sewing one strip on a ton of blocks and then pressing each one open for the next strip instead of jumping up and down from the sewing machine to the ironing board each time.  Good exercise though.
5. Remember to trim away excess seam allowances as you go.
6. Keep going until you have your square covered.  Press.
7. Use the rotary cutter and ruler to cut your new block 1/4 inch bigger on all sides.
8. Done.
9. Repeat.  When you sew your blocks together you'll just sew the overhung edges together and not really sew through the foundation squares.  You're seams will still be bulkier than normal, but it is pretty managable (if you aren't hand quilting I guess.)  As you could guess, this top is twice as heavy as a normal top (duh) but you should keep that in mind for how you plan to finish it and use it.

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My apologies to those who got lost on my last tutorial.  You'll probably get lost here too then.  I'm kind of rushing through these tutorials with less than perfect photos and quick instructions -- but I've been wanting to share this for a while and this isn't my day job... 

Anyway, for those of you who get it and who have overflowing scrap baskets like me, I can't wait to see your scrap quilts!!  Let me know if you make any!

Scrap strips squares quilt / tutorial

Say that 3 times fast.  Oh, it's finally done.

I don't feel like going on about it.  I just like it.  I'm keeping it.  It is made with the scraps of one of my first sewing projects. 
Here's the back.

I like it too.  I didn't exactly proceed with a plan but one thing led to another.  Quilting those squares in the squares wasn't fast nor fun but I do like the way it looks.

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Scrap strip method tutorial

The pieced squares in this quilt were made from scrap strips with a method I learned at a Linus Connection meeting.   It is kind of a fun, addictive method and I thought I'd share it with you.

 

1.  Cut a ton of scraps into equal width strips (not equal length.)  If you have enough you can make your whole quilt top like this.
2.  Sew them end to end -- I did it in 2s, 4s, 8s, etc. to save time piecing -- until they are in one long strip. (fig 1)  Don't think about what pieces you are sewing together -- it'll all work out in the end. I don't worry about ironing the seams at this point.
3. Fold this very long strip in half, making sure there aren't twists and, starting at the open end, sew down one length of the strip.  Crease folded end as you approach it and cut it open before sewing. (fig 4)  Now it will be half as long, twice as wide. (fig 2)
4. Repeat. Now it will be half as long and twice as wide again (fig 3)
5. Repeat, repeat.  Press seams when you are done. (fig 5) 

I used 1.5 inch strips for this example but like 2.5 or 3 inch strips in my quilt.  If you have it long enough you can make a whole quilt top like this - though the math can make for a weird shape.  I didn't have a ton of strips so I did this until I had 4 wide and then decided to cut that piece into squares.  It made for an interesting random pattern that wouldn't have happened another way.  Have fun!

Tutorial: Chenille-backed patchwork blanket. Part 4: Tying your blanket

To add ties to your blanket you will need some thread, a needle, and scissors.  I always use pearle (perle? pearl?) cotton thread (Joann's, etc.) but I've seen quilts tied with regular embroidery floss, yarn, etc.  I like to choose the color to match the chenille so it doesn't show on the back.  The needle just needs to have a large enough hole to put your thread through -- some sort of embroidery needle I guess (I don't remember what kind I use - how's that for a help!) 

Cut a long piece of thread - so you can take a lot of stitches at once.  If it is a big throw quilt I cut enough to tie a whole row at a time.

I like to put my ties on the seams because they are less noticeable.  I like to straddle the seam with my stitch and I try to catch the seam allowance too.  Take a stitch that is 1/4 to 3/8" long.  (Mine always end up at least 3/8" long cause the needle is thicker I guess.)  Make sure to leave a 3-4 inch tail. 

***NOW - take a backstitch here - another stitch going in and coming up the same place.

Now, go on to the next place you want a tie.  Don't cut your thread.  You are just going do the same thing as you did above for the next stitch.

(I usually place my ties anywhere from 4 to 6 inches apart - depending on the design.  It isn't critical with this type of blanket because you aren't trying to hold any batting in place -- the ties just function to keep the back and front together.)

Before pulling your thread snug on the second tie, you will probably want to ensure that you leave a little slack in the thread between the stitches as shown above.  This will allow you to have more thread to hold on to when you go to tie the knots, making it much more comfortable.  You'll get a feel for how much you need.

Go ahead and repeat this process for the whole row of ties -- or for as long as your piece of thread lasts.

Now, make a cut in the thread equidistant between each tie location.

Use a square knot to secure your tie.  This knot is -- Right over Left and tie; Left over Right and tie.  The trick is that the original "Right" becomes the 2nd "Left."  Use the link if you don't get it.  Or, ask a boy/girl scout.

Once your knot is tied, trim your thread to the desired length.  I usually aim for about 1/2 inch long.

Repeat the procedures above for all your ties.

That's it.  (Although truthfully I do one more thing.  I always wash my blankets/quilts at this stage to do a durability check, especially if I am giving them away.) 

You are done.  Congratulations.  See, it wasn't so hard! 

Now, it is time to put the dolly to bed -- or in Bea's case, the baby bat. 

Hope this tutorial helps you make a great blanket.  If you do make one and feature it on your blog, please include a link in the comments section here.  I'd love to see it!

Tutorial: Chenille-backed patchwork blanket. Part 3: Adding the chenille back

Now that your front side patchwork is complete you are ready to sew it to the chenille back.  There is really no mystery here.  You just sew them right sides together and then flip and topstitch.  But for this tutorial I will go into detail as if this were a secret skill.

I like to cut my chenille about an inch larger than the front so it will be 1/2 inch larger on each side.  Lay the patchwork face down on the chenille so right sides are together.

Pin these pieces together leaving an opening big enough to stick your hand in and turn it inside out -- usually about 8-10 inches.  I like to mark my start/stop points with two pins to remind me to stop sewing.

Sew the pieces together using a generous 1/4" to 3/8" seam, following the edge of the patchwork.  I use the edge of my walking foot presser foot.  I like to use the walking foot because the chenille is more stretchy than the cotton patchwork and it helps to feed it through.  If you don't have a walking foot for your machine, it will still work.  Since you made the chenille bigger, you have some room for error so to speak.  You might just want to add more pins. Sew from start point to stop point leaving an opening - and backstitch to secure your stitches at the beginning and end.

Now trim away the excess chenille and carefully trim the corners so they will poke out better.  Flip it right side out and poke the corners out.

Now you need to prepare for topstitching around the edge to secure the shape of the blanket and to close up the hole.  Fuss with your edges to make them flat and even and then press them lightly.  I usually add a few pins to keep everything lined up.  At the opening, turn your fabrics under to meet each other and add pins and press.  Just fuss with it until it looks even - you may not even be able to tell where the opening was!  Now you are all ready for topstitching as seen below.

*If you are feeling particularly saintly, you can baste the edge seams here instead of pinning.  Just take really big stitches through the pressed seam allowance all the way around including the opening.  My mom recommends this and especially if you don't have a walking foot, it probably does hold better -- so you don't get back rolling to front/front rolling to back issues.  It really doesn't take that much longer either.

I use my walking foot again to do the topstitching but it works without it too.  Just sew a continuous line of stitching along the edge of the top about 1/8" in.  Start a few inches in front of the opening, then sew through the opening and on around the quilt.  Oh - and backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitches.  Mmmm.  Chenille.  So soft. 

You are just about done! Kuddos.

*I have heard that some people have difficulties finding chenille.  I'm sorry 'bout that cause I can't seem to stop using it.  I have made this same type of blanket using a flannel back and the technique works the same though the edges are a little more rippled because the flannel doesn't have the weight of the chenille.  For the flannel one, I used a zigzag stitch to topstitch and that seemed to help the look.  I'd say experiment with other fabric you can find -- denim?  terry cloth? polar fleece?  corduroy? 

Chenille is for sale on lots of online shops (none that I've tried before - but look at all the "flavors" here).  I usually buy it at Joann's and remember to bring my 40% coupon or wait for a sale and stock up.  DId you know you could make your own chenille?  It sounds like punishment to me - making even the non-sale price sound reasonable.  I really want to start using vintage chenille that I come across at a garage sale for a bargain.  (Good luck with that!)

Tomorrow:  Tying your blanket.

Tutorial: Chenille-backed patchwork blanket. Part 2: Sewing a patchwork top

Time to sew!  First up, sew the four patches together.  For each four patch repeat the following:

Lay the top right square face down on the top left square and the bottom right square face down on the bottom left square. 

Sew them together along the right side using a 1/4" seam allowance.  Be as accurate as you can.  (If you have never done it, use a ruler to measure 1/4" from where your needle enters the fabric.  That is where the edge of your fabric should be.  Mark that on your presser foot or your sewing machine.  I used some blue painters tape.) 

You can see that I often "chain piece" - that is, sew one right after the other without cutting threads in between (just take a few stitches to separate.)  This is optional but saves time and thread. 

Now, lay out the squares as you want them in your four patch then flip them upside down on your ironing surface.  Press the top seam allowance to the left and press the bottom seam allowance to the right, as shown.  (Or vice versa - they just need to be opposite)  Take care not to pull on the fabrics as you iron so they don't get stretched crooked.

Now, put these two pieces of the four patch right sides together.  Since you pressed the seam allowances in opposite directions, they will "butt up" against each other tightly when the middle seam is lined up.  Check and see.  Now put a pin in the seam allowance just forward of the middle seam.  (Some people pin right in the seam but I was taught that the pin will slip around in the "holes" and not hold as tight.) You can put more pins in before sewing if you want but I think the fabric grips well enough.  Just adjust as you sew.  So - go ahead and sew this seam along the right side with 1/4" allowance again.

Press this seam it up or down - for this it doesn't matter.  Usually it will "want" to go one way - just let it.   Now you should have a completed and pressed four patch as shown in the first picture.

Repeat for all the four patches and you will have what is shown above.  Note that the size of the plain blocks and the four patches are now the same.  It is the magic of 1/4" seams!

Now, join the blocks together in rows from left to right using the same technique.

Now, press the seams allowances you have just sewed on your rows.  (Don't mess with the four patch seams that you have already pressed.) Press the seam allowances on the first row all to the left and the seam allowances on the second row all to the right, alternating like this for all the rows.

Now, pin two of the rows together.  As before, since you have pressed the seam allowances in opposite directions you will butt these up together and pin in front of them.  If these are lined up first, your quilt will go together well.  Once these are pinned you can gently stretch or ease your blocks together, using pins as necessary to get the rows to line up on the outside edges. 

Sew the rows all together in this manner.  Then iron these new seam allowances down from the back, taking care not to mess with the old seam allowances that have already been pressed.   I like to gently press again from the top to make sure everything is smooth.

Done!  A completed patchwork.  Oh, there are tons of tips and shortcuts that I've left out - but you don't care because you've just made your first patchwork.  Isn't it lovely?!

Tomorrow:  Adding the chenille back.

Tutorial: Chenille-backed patchwork blanket. Part 1: Design and cutting

Quite a few people responded with questions about my most recent chenille backed patchwork blanket and a few intrepid souls said it has inspired them to try their first patchwork.  So I, in turn, was inspired to write up a little tutorial on how I do it.  There are plenty of how-to guides out there I know -- but this is what I do.  I hope it will help some of you.

The project:  A patchwork on one side, and fuzzy chenille on the other -- resulting in a nicely weighted and cozy blanket.  For the purposes of this tutorial, I made a little doll quilt.  You can choose your size -- from a baby blankie to an adult-sized throw.

Materials:  Like all projects, it starts with the materials.  In this case you want a bunch of nice cotton prints.  If you are a beginner, it would be nice if they are all cotton and all about the same weight.  Also -- chenille or other fuzzy/soft/thick fabric for the back, coordinating thread for the sewing machine, and perle cotton thread/large needle for tying the blanket.  Equipment: sewing machine, cutting mat/rulers/rotary cutter, iron/ironing board, good scissors.

If you are a beginner and bothered by your squares not matching up perfectly, I'd recommend busy fabrics.  Below is a picture of my first independent sewing project ever in February 2005.

I was luckily attracted to busy, fun fabrics because it wasn't until later that I realized they really help to hide sewing "sins."  Anyhooo, back to the subject at hand.

Preparation:  Wash your fabrics.  Some people debate this.  I don't have any doubt.  Wash them.  Then iron them well. 

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Design:  Now it is time to figure out what you are going to do.  For this simple blanket, I chose to alternate a four patch with a large block.  The small squares are cut 2.5 inches and the large squares are cut 4.5 inches.  (They finish at 2 inches/4 inches then when you use a quarter inch seam.) For the recent blanket I did for my cousin, I did slightly larger squares -- 3.5 inches/6.5 inches cut respectively.  You can choose your look, even going larger (4.5 inches/8.5 inches) if you'd like. 

This is a simple "pattern" that results in a pretty busy and fun look -- good for a beginner.  Here's another example. You could always do a "one patch" and just piece together blocks of all the same size.

Figure out your layout now - either in your head or on a piece of graph paper.  You don't have to decide on colors, but you need to decide how big you want it so you'll know how many squares to cut.  Make sure you remember seam allowance in your calculations.  (If you use 3.5/6.5 cut squares, each square - either big or 4 patch - will finish at 6 inches.  A 6 block by 6 block quilt will be 36 inches square when finished.) 

Cutting:  I use a cutting mat, rotary cutter, and a see-through plastic ruler for this.  If you don't use these things, then do the best you can to cut your squares accurately however you can.  The first step is straighten out one side by cutting along the grain of the fabric (usually the lengthwise grain.)

Next, flip the fabric around and line up proper measurement along the straight edge of your fabric - in this case, the 4.5 inch line.  Cut along the outer edge to get a strip of fabric 4.5 inches wide.  Note: a thin lined ruler is more accurate.  The smaller the square you cut, the more accurate you need to be.  Pay attention to where you put that line and do it the same each time.

Next use the same technique (straighten up one side of the strip, flip and then cut from the other side) to cut the squares.  Note that this time you can line up both the left and bottom edges straight along the ruler lines to ensure that you are getting a square.

Cut all your big and little squares with the same technique.  If you feel confident in cutting you can cut many layers of fabric at the same time so it goes faster. 

Layout:  Now that all your squares are cut, you get to have fun laying out your quilt.  For this quilt I do straight rows.  For Ian's quilt I purposely moved the rows around, resulting in a more random look.  This is pretty fun but it does complicate the piecing so just make note if you are a beginner.

Throw them down on the floor/table/bed/design wall (yeah right) - somewhere where you can stand back and admire.  This quite random layout actually resulted from careful placement - making sure that the colors were balanced throughout the layout.  I like to look at my quilt through backwards binoculars - it is easy to see the colors and see if anything needs to be re-arranged.  Once you have it laid out, you are just about ready to sew.  (Note: the four patch squares will appear bigger than the other squares so your layout won't match up perfectly at this point. This is correct.)

If your squares aren't near your sewing machine then you'll need to transport them without messing up your layout.  You can use post-its to number your rows and stack things up neatly.  In any case, you might want to use a pin to mark the tops of the squares/four patches as you sew.  As much as you think you'll remember, it is sometimes hard to remember where to put the pieces back into the layout.

Tommorrow:  Part II - Sewing together the patchwork.

A fun game with Photoshop

AFTER:  Possumhaw stripes

Here is a fun stripe generating game I learned with Photoshop.

Before:  Possumhaw

1.  Crop.  Select a very small row of your image, like 1-10 pixels wide by the height of your image. Chose a section that has color variations.
2.  Resize.  Click off "Constrain Proportions" and increase the width of the image so instead of 1-10 pixels it is now hundreds or thousands of pixels -- whatever you want. 
3.  See! - The colors in the selected row of your original image have now spread out to fill the whole image. 
4.  Use for collages, wrapping paper, desktop background (crazy - will make people think your computer is freaking out), or print out onto fabric and make a quilt! 

I first learned about doing this last year in an episode of Simply Quilts.  (My craft inspiration before I stumbled into the wardrobe and found all of your blogs!)  A guy did this and got his images printed out at a banner company onto huge pieces of fabric and made whole-cloth quilts with them.  Stunning. 

If nothing else, this technique is good for color palette inspiration as it literally draws out the color in your favorite photos.

Here are some more before and after shots:

Chipped glass, before.

Chipped glass stripes, after.

Spring, before.

Spring stripes, after.  My fav.

It works vertically too, of course.

Zinnias before.

Zinnia stripes, after.

The Mama Backpack - the tutorial to end all tutorials

Thanks for all the comments and well wishes on my 100th post yesterday.  And now....

Finally, as promised, the Mama Backpack Tutorial (Non-Mama's welcome!!)

Hold on to your hat folks -- there are a lot of steps.  If you have made lined bags before this is probably pretty familiar to you, but I've tried to be detailed in case you are a newbie like me.  If this doesn't make sense, go back and review the previous drawstring bag tutorials (look in archives under Tutorials.)  And many, many thanks to Mom for helping me figure out the original pattern and kuddos to Mother-in-law for buying the original bag in Guatemala.

I can't wait to see how YOUR bag turns out!

Click photos for a larger view. 

Materials: 
1/2 yard outer fabric; 1/2 yard lining fabric
A little cotton batting
Grommets & grommet punch/press
4 yards of cord -- thick stuff since it is a backpack this time
Sew-on velcro - optional

1.  Make yourself a pattern.  It will be 15.5 inches wide and 17.5 inches tall.  (Apologies to metric folks.)  Round the bottom edge a little.  This includes a ~3/8" seam allowance all around.  Draw a FOLD DOWN OUTER line at 1 1/4" below the seam allowance.  Draw another LINING CUT LINE 1/2" below the first line.  Draw another SEW TO HERE line 1/2" below the first line.  Mark two Xs 13" apart on the bottom edge.  These Xs indicate where to stop sewing up the sides.  Here are some more photos to help you make sense of these instructions.

2.  Now draw the pattern for the bottom (its the oval laying on top of the piece above.)  It will be an oval 11.5" wide by 5 5/8" tall.  This includes a ~ 3/8 inch seam allowance.

3.  Cut your pieces.  Cut 2 pieces from your outer fabric.  Cut 2 pieces of your lining fabric (the same pattern, but shorter -- cutting on the CUT LINING HERE line).

4.  Cut pieces for the bottom of the bag as a rectangle about 12.5" x 6.5" (oversized -- you'll cut the oval down to size after quilting).  For the bottom, cut 1 outer fabric, 1 lining fabric, and 1 piece of batting.

5.  Stack the bottom pieces as shown (batting in between, right sides out) and quilt as desired.  I stitched lines about 2 inches apart -- relatively straight.  Then, lay the pattern you made down, and cut the bottom out.

6.  You should now have the above photo.  2 outer pieces, 2 lining pieces, an a quilted bottom piece.

7.  If you want to make pockets, now is the time.  Here's how I did mine. 

8.  Cut a piece of fabric the width of your pocket panel and twice as tall.  Fold in half, right sides together.  Stitch around, leaving a hole for turning.  Turn right side up and stitch closed. 

9. Sew pocket to lining along sides and bottom.  Sew up center of panel to make 2 smaller pockets.  NOTE:  If you want to add velcro to close the pockets, do it before you sew the panel to the lining.  Much easier.  Sew on as many pockets as you want, then proceed.

10.  Pin lining pieces right sides together.  Now, looking at your pattern and transfering the marks, sew up both sides from the X at the bottom edge to the SEW TO HERE line (basically 1/2" from the top of the lining.)

11.  Breathe.  Are you still with me?  Can you believe I am trying to explain this to you on a blog?  Me either.  But I promised.  I wish I could just show you in person.

12.  Now, before we can do the same to the outer fabric, need to make the flaps for the cord and grommets to go through. 

13.  (NOTE:  I ran out of outer fabric so I used the lining fabric for these.  I would have preferred the outer striped fabric and you will probably too.)  Cut 2 pieces 3" x 8"  Fold in half length wise and press.  Fold both ends to meet in the center (see photo above.)  Press.  Fold again in half.  Stitch around the 3 finished sides (You'll put the raw side into the seam.)

14. Follow the instructions on your tool to punch the grommets into the center of these pieces.  Make sure you choose grommets big enough for 2 pieces of your cord to go through but small enough that the knot won't slip through.

15.  Place the grommet panels inside the 2 outer bag pieces about 2 inches from the bottom with raw edges out into seam.  Pin the panels together and sew the same as the lining - from the X at the bottom to the SEW TO HERE line.  NOTE:  This will be further down from the top for this piece - leaving a larger portion at the top for folding down. 

16.  Mark center of both sides of both the long and short sides of the bottom piece.  Mark the center of both sides of the bottom edge of the lining pieces and the the outer pieces.  This will help you in getting things pinned.

17.  Breathe again.  Are you still with me?  Pin the lining (still wrong side out) to the lining side of the bottom panel, matching up the center marks and matching the side seam allowance with the center of the short edge.  Adjust and adjust again until it is relatively smooth.  A few puckers here won't kill anyone.  Leave the side seams "up." 

I'm not saying this is easy or quick, but if I can do it, you can do it.  Here's a view of the side seams up.

18.  Sew pieces together from side seam to side seam with about 3/8 inch seam allowance.  I sewed over the pins, very slowly, but I'm not saying you should.  Use your judgement.  Use needle down position and adjust the fabric as you need to when you go around the curves.  Stop when you get to the other side seam, backstitch, cut threads and then repeat on the other side.  Now you should have this...

19.  Now, leaving the lining where it is, do the same thing with the outer fabric, pinning it to the outer side of the bottom panel.

20.  Even though you've pinned the fabric on the outer fabric side, you will want to go ahead and stitch on lining side again so you can follow the exact same stitch line you used before.  Just be really careful with the bottom fabric position, adjusting often, so it doesn't get caught.  When you are done stitching both sides, you'll have this.

21.  Ready for the fun?  Now, flip the outer fabric up!  Your bag looks awesome!

22.  Fold and press the sides of the top of the outer fabric to create a finished edge for your casing.  Fold and press the outer fabric down on the FOLD DOWN HERE line, to create the top fold of your casing.  Oh, I hope this is still making sense.

23.  Now, fold under the lining so that it overlaps the outer fabric slightly, but creates a finished edge.  Press. Pin. 

24.  Top stitch right along the top of the lining fold and the top edge of the bag to create the casing for your cord.

25.  Insert the cord through the top of the bag and down into the grommets and knot.  If you need more help with this step, see previous tutorials.  I would recommend that you try the bag on, fully loaded and adjust the length of the cord so it fits you well and doesn't hang too low.  Cut cord and use white glue or fray check on the ends to secure.

Wow.  You did it.  Wear the Mama Backpack proudly. (OR rename your Non-Mama Backpack to suit your life!)

25 Steps.  Sheesh.  World peace can probably be acheived in less.

If you try this, please let me know if something is confusing and I'll see if I can clarify.  If you have success, share with me and everyone by posting a comment with a link to your blog or photo if possible.  Happy sewing from happythings.